Bad Boys Birding trip to Poland 2nd May -10th May 2024.
Bad Boys Birding trip to Poland with Marek Borkowski of Wildlife Poland 2nd May -10th May 2024.
Guest List:
Graham Ekins
Richard Cross
Danny Chesterman
Pamela Crompton
Jeremy Rewse-Davies
Ian & Fleur Stewart Smith
Itinery:
A comfortable 9-day trip split between the Biebrza Marsh and the ancient Bialowieza Forest concentrating on the birds and wildlife in one of the last remaining great wilderness’ of Europe and arguably in the best birding area in Europe.
Staying in first class accommodation including the Carska, the Russian Czar’s railway carriages and restaurant deep in the heart of the Bialowieza Forest.
Birding highlights included: Aquatic, Marsh, River, Savi’s, Barred, Icterine, Greenish, Great Reed, Wood Warblers; Collared & Red-breasted Flycatcher; all 10 woodpeckers; Thrush Nightingale, Rose Finch, Hawfinch, Hoopoe, Golden Oriole; Corncrake, Citrine Wagtail; Nutcracker, Pygmy & Tengmalms Owl; Greater and Lesser Spotted & White-Tailed Eagles, etc.
In addition Bison, Elk, Beaver, Red Deer, Roe Deer, Red Fox, Common Pine Vole, Camberwell Beauty, Frogs, Chasers, Damselflies, Butterflies and Orchids were seen.
Guest Comments:
Danny Chesterman:
I have been to Poland a couple of times; both occasions guided by Marek and his wife Hania.
The latest visit was a 9-day trip 2-10 May 2024, attended by 7 clients. We had four nights around their home in the northern part of the Biebrza marshes, then two nights in the southern part of the marshes, and finally two nights in the Bialowieza Forest where we stayed at the converted railway station and carriages at Carska, so named after the Czar’s hunting trips.
Both Marek and Hania (joined on occasions by the son Andrew) are superb in the field, finding and enticing out the rarer birds of the region.
We saw all the birds we hoped to (Great Snipe lekking, Aquatic and River Warblers, ten species of Woodpecker, Tengmalms and Pygmy Owls, Lesser and Greater Spotted and White tailed Eagles, Corncrake and Little Crake, Penduline Tit, Wrynecks, Shrikes, the three Marsh Terns, and also Bison , Beaver and Elk.
I doubt if anyone knows more about the birds and their behaviours in this part of the world. Marek is always willing to explain the historical and social contexts, and Hania provides bounteous and delicious food at seemingly any time of the day or night.
Add this to the unique experience of being welcomed into their family home for meals and relaxation I felt I was getting a fully immersive experience in a truly magical part of the world. As with all birding things don’t always go quite to plan (weather, traffic, illness, birds not playing ball etc) but in these situations Marek and Hania are adept in developing a new plan and improvising. You do need to survive on less sleep than normal but there are rest periods to recover during the quieter times of the day. Overall, they provide a fantastic experience for anyone who loves wilderness and wants to see some of the rarest birds in Europe up close and personal.
Graham Ekins:
After an enjoyable flight to the vast and modern Warsaw Airport, I left my bags at my hotel and decided to go for a walk around the grounds and surrounding woodland, quite amazing habitat so close to the airport.
FIELDFARES were everywhere with some feeding recently fledged young. The pine trees held a huge rookery with lots of activity while WHITE WAGTAILS were collecting food, and HOODED CROWS were wandering around under the trees.
The following morning we visited the superb Szczubelka wetland Park on the outskirts of Warsaw. We were greeted by singing COMMON REDSTARTS from the tops of the conifers in the adjacent large gardens. Within minutes we were watching a superb SYRIAN WOODPECKER, the first of 9 species we were to see on this trip and a species I had last seen in Israel many decades before. We also added GREEN and GREAT SPOTTED WOODPECKERS while overhead HONEY BUZZARDS were passing through, some 10 days earlier than usual after several days of warm southerlies.
We then moved to Ostoja Narwiaknska Marshes where we were greeted by singing THRUSH NIGHTINGALES, a flock of passing COMMON CRANES, flocks of summer plumage RUFF as well as 25 BLACK, 15 WHITE-WINGED BLACK and 2 WHISKERED TERNS. We also added HOOPOE, WHITE STORKS and more HONEY BUZZARDS. The YELLOW WAGTAILS were all superbly marked flava.
That evening we visited a mixed forest near Popowo where we had great views of PYGMY OWL, a species I had not seen since a winter trip to central Sweden. We also added several singing WOOD WARBELRS some cracking northern type BULLFINCHES, the more eastern pale bellied NUTHATCHES and a very vocal BLACK WOODPECKER.
The following morning was hectic with a trip to forest near Kuligi where we added LESSER SPOTTED, MIDDLE-SPOTTED, more BLACK and a superb and scarce GREY-HEADED WOODPECKER. We were also serenaded by GOLDEN ORIOLES and HOOPOES.
We then moved to watch point overlooking a vast marsh near Kuligi. This was alive with the sounds of displaying COMMON SNIPE while overhead were soaring LESSER SPOTTED and WHITE-TAILED EAGLES and another passage HONEY BUZZARD and MONTAGU’S HARRIER. We estimated another 120 RUFF with GREEN and WOOD SANDPIPERS, WHIMBREL, REDSHANK and GREENSHANK also present. Out on the Marsh were many SAVI’S and GREAT REED WARBLERS.
That evening was very special as we visited the vast Biebrza National Park with Marek and his son who were going to film displaying GREAT SNIPE. This was a magical experience to see so many males interacting and displaying. We also had 4 AQUATIC WARBLERS in full song as well as a distant calling SPOTTED CRAKE and BITTERN. On the way we added Goshawk, a late migrating flock of WHITEFRONTS and WHITE-SPOTTED BLUETHROAT.
On our 4th and 5th days in Poland we were again up at 04.00 for a dawn visit to the Rajgród Marshes in North- Eastern Poland. It was cold and clear with a beautiful dawn. The air was full of bleating from displaying COMMON SNIPE and song from GREAT REED, SAVI’S and SEDGE WARBERS.
We then heard a singing CITRINE WAGTAIL and found it in the top of a nearby bush. This adult male was a superb sight, we later found several more at other wetland sites in NE/E Poland. I then saw a distant shape moving through the Salix, a huge Elk and one of my 3 target species for this trip. It really was an impressive beast. We later saw two more feeding in distant ditches.
As the air warmed LESSER SPOTTED EAGLES started to soar accompanied by a BLACK STORK, MONTAGU’S and PALLID HARRIERS and several COMMON CRANES. The L.S. EAGLES increased in numbers during our stay as they arrived after their long migration from East Africa. Several flava race YELLOW WAGTAILS were singing nearby with head and neck markings seeming darker and more intense than those found further west. Scanning distant trees, we found an adult WHITE-TAILED EAGLE while on the drive out of the marsh we found several WHINCHATS, a HOOPOE and a male WHEATEAR.
We then drove to Sztabin Forest where we BBQed some superb Polish sausage and enjoyed some great cheeses.
Marek decided to play a tape of PYGMY OWL, not expecting much of a response during the heat of the afternoon. Within minutes to our delight, one flew in and started calling. After our picnic we went and watched singing WOOD WARBLERS as well as getting great views of some brightly marked BULLFINCHES and another BLACK WOODPECKER.
The following day we made an early visit to a vast abandoned fish farm at Rajgród. Unfortunately, this had been drained and so water bird numbers were significantly reduced. However, it was still an enjoyable visit with many other species being seen. This included THRUSH NIGHTINGALES, GREAT REED WARBERS, WATER RAILS, WRYNECKS, RED-BACKED SHRIKES, LITTLE-RINGED PLOVERS, GREEN SANDPIPERS, WHIMBREL, nesting COMMON CRANES and CUCKOO.
Late morning we drove to Biebrza Marshes, a vast wetland complex that runs for many kms. We estimated 160 WHITE-WINGED BLACK TERNs as well as WHISKERED and BLACK. Displaying nominate race BLACK-TAILED GODWITS, 240 very mobile RUFF, most males in breeding plumage. Raptors included MONTAGU’S HARRIERS, LESSER-SPOTTED and WHITE-TAILED EAGLES and a BLACK KITE. Just before we left, we had song from a distant AQUATIC WARBLER. We also managed a couple of sightings of superb CAMBERWELL BEAUTY butterflies.
Before leaving for the Bialowieza Forest the following morning we went to a wet forest near Marek’s house. Here we were able to watch from some distance a pair of WHITE-BACKED WOODPECKERS feeding 2 well grown young. I was delighted as I had only seen this species once before in central Sweden. We had now recorded 8 species of woodpecker on this trip. I also managed to set a moth trap with some great species attracted.
We continued to travel further east and north in Poland stopping for short while at the vast Bronowo Meadows in the Narew River Valley. Almost immediately we could hear several CORNCRAKES calling. Marek played a tape and one showed very well on the edge of one of the vegetation filled ditches. Another species I had not seen for many years. We also had great view of one of the many singing THRUSH NIGHTINGALES. As we left a pair of GREY PARTRIDGE showed well on the edge of a winter wheat field. Our next stop was to the vast and disused Dojlidy Fish Ponds. Here RED-NECKED GREBES were nesting, a really stunning species in summer plumage. All around us were singing SEDGE, SAVI’S, GREAT REED and the first MARSH WARBLER of the trip. We stopped at the edge of a reed bed and Marek played a tape of LITTLE CRAKE, almost immediately we had a reply and then a pair showed amongst the reeds, they were quite elusive, the female more than the male. Shortly afterwards Hania heard a PENDULINE TIT and within minutes it showed hunting for insects amongst the flowering Salix.
Frogs were calling loudly and I managed to ID both EDIBLE and POND FROGS. Insects were great with MAP BUTTERFLIES and some superb DOWNY EMERALD DRAGONFLIES, FOUR-SPOTTED CHASERS, plus large numbers of VARIABLE BLUET and LARGE RED DAMSELFLIES and a star species for me of several SIBERIAN WINTER DAMSELFIES.
For the last days of our excellent Poland trip, we were based at the incredible Bialowieza Towarova train station hotel on the border with Belarus. This was where the Czars used to catch their train to other areas in Eastern Europe and Russia. An incredible amount of work has gone into renovating the coaches, engines and train station. I was amazed by my carriage with beautiful carvings and plush upholstery.
The surrounding area is primarily tall deciduous forest. Opposite the main entrance wet Salix scrub was home to a very vociferous RIVER WARBLER and several Thrush Nightingales while the surrounding trees held newly arrived ICTERINE WARBLERS, RED-BREASTED FLYCATCHERS, COMMON ROSEFINCHES and the resident HAWFINCHES.
It was in this area that I managed to see COMMON PINE VOLE, another new Mammal species. Larger than our Bank Vole with grey rather than brown flanks.
We made various trips into the vast Bialowieza Forest where I finally caught up with TENGMALM’S (BOREAL) OWL late one night. This species had eluded me for many years, I was therefore delighted. This was the only bird lifer on this trip and number 8,036 on my life list. We also spent time looking for EUROPEAN BISON. We eventually found 7 huge males enjoying the early morning sunshine. The females were deep in the forest with their calves and would not appear for a month or more. We spent time walking through the forest during the day and found SPOTTED NUTCRACKER, CRESTED TIT, LESSER SPOTTED EAGLE, GOSHAWK, WRYNECK and GREAT GREY SHRIKE in one of the clearings.
I was also please to record the diminutive green Geometrid moth called JODIS PUTATA. It is associated with Bilberry which grows in profusion in the coniferous areas of the forest. We also found a colony of GREEN HAIRSTREAK BUTTERFLIES plus several fresh SPECKLED WOOD BUTTERFLIES and LATTICED HEATH moths.
The last morning, we spent time in a wet forest with many tall, dead tree trunks. This was the habitat for our 10th and final woodpecker THREE-TOED. The only European one we missed was the southern Iberian Green woodpecker, so it was incredibly successful. We also checked out a scrubby area on our way back to the hotel where the first of the BARRED WARBLERS were on territory alongside WRYNECK, GREAT GREY and RED-BACKED SHRIKES.
On our long drive back to Warsaw we stopped off at the Wilanow Palace and lake where a Great Reed warbler, the last of many, showed well in the tall reeds.
Overall, a great Polish trip with 3 mammal (ELK, EUROPEAN BISON & COMMON PINE VOLE) and one bird lifer in TENGMALM’S OWL.
It was also very enjoyable seeing so many Eastern European summer visitors as well as many beautiful flowers, great moths plus dragon and damselflies. The scenery was superb as were the vast forests and marshes in a large country with half the population of the UK.