Pantanal and Cerrado

Tour participants:

Guide: Lucas Marti

Banfield Wilfred

Chesterman Daniel

Church Karen

Cross Richard

Drygala Grzegorz

Rangachar Aradhana

Rao Vaze Sanjeevanee Vitthal

Wojtasiewicz-Skolmowska Jolanta

Day 1

Our tour begins in the city of Cuiabá, nestled in the heart of South America and the capital of the State of Mato Grosso in Brazil. Some of us had already arrived the night before, so we had the opportunity to have dinner and get to know each other.

However, two team members were still to arrive, so we picked them up at the airport and set off towards the northeast, more precisely to the city of Chapada dos Guimarães.

Chapada dos Guimarães is a charming little town perched on a plateau, 800 meters above sea level, very popular among the inhabitants of Cuiabá for weekend getaways. Here, we can find a unique biome called "Cerrado." This biome is a wooded savanna, with various types of habitats ranging from open fields to dense forests, and it boasts a remarkable biodiversity of flora and fauna. Covering an impressive 1.8 million square kilometres, the Cerrado is Brazil's second-largest biome after the Amazon rainforest, representing about 30% of the country's. Its richness in wildlife and plant life makes it a true gem for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts alike.

After approximately an hour and fifteen minutes of a comfortable van ride through the ascending and zigzagging route that led us to our destination, we finally arrived at our lodge. This lodge was situated within the Chapada dos Guimarães National Park, a magnificent park protecting Cerrado habitat and the cultural legacy of ancient local aboriginal cultures. Upon arrival, we completed our check-in, and a few minutes later, after settling in, we eagerly embarked on our quest to find birds and wildlife.

We strolled around the lodge and spotted a White Woodpecker, the noisy and abundant Chopi Blackbirds, some hummingbirds sipping nectar from the flowers surrounding the pool, and the ever-present Ruddy Ground Dove. We then decided to venture onto a trail that would lead us to a small waterfall. Along the way, we observed Pectoral Sparrow and Fuscous Flycatcher, among other birds. However, our main focus was on finding one of the characteristic birds of this area: the distinctive Helmeted Manakin.

After a few attempts, we finally spotted it, although it initially proved to be a bit challenging to capture a good photograph. But soon enough, the Helmeted Manakin appeared and danced around just a few meters away from us, at eye level, providing us with the perfect opportunity to take excellent photos. Before that encounter, wewere fortunate to have seen a small yet beautiful Flavescent Warbler, busy foraging for insects on the ground while displaying its typical behaviour of fanning its tail as it moved in search of food.

Before noon, we set off in our van towards the nearby town, as some of us needed to exchange money. We had lunch there and then returned to our lodge to take a well-deserved siesta and escape the scorching heat of the day.

In the afternoon, we decided to head towards a street close to the geodesic centre. We drove the van down almost to the end of the street and began our search for some specific species. Suddenly, one of our targets for the afternoon appeared - the Band-tailed Manakin. Its vibrant colours caught our eyes, and we were thrilled to have spotted it. We also heard the elusive Fiery-capped Manakin, but despite attempting playback to lure it out, it remained hidden from our view. During this afternoon, some of us were fortunate to spot Little Tinamous walking in the nearby understory. We continued walking to get a glimpse of the colourful Amazonian Motmot, which was a true sight to behold.

As the evening approached, we ended the day with a delightful array of birds. Notably, we encountered a group of seven Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers, several species of parrots, parakeets, and macaws flying overhead, likely searching for a safe roosting spot for the night. The real show, however, came from several Channel- billed Toucans that treated us to a mesmerizing dance and song as the sun set.

Upon returning to our lodge, we enjoyed a delicious dinner that comforted us after an eventful day, and it served as a wonderful conclusion to the first day of our thrilling adventure.

Day 2

Our morning started very early, as the Cerrado doesn't wait for anyone, and once it gets a bit warmer, bird activity significantly decreases. That's why we set out before the sun had even risen, reaching the Cerrado just in time for the first light of day. Along the way, we spotted a Yellow-headed Caracara, and as soon as we stepped out of our vehicle, the avian world began to come alive: Pale-breasted Spinetail, Blue- black Grassquit, Grassland Sparrow, and Red-pileated Finch greeted us.

As we continued walking through the Cerrado, we were delighted to come across a White-eared Puffbird, while a few Curl-crested Jays gracefully soared above our heads. Moving forward, we spotted Cinnamon, Burnish-buff, Black-faced, and Shrike-like Tanagers, alongside several White-rumped Tanagers and many more species, all adding their unique voices to this distinct habitat. Toward the end of our time in the Cerrado, we finally managed to capture some wonderful photos of the recently discovered Chapada Flycatcher, Collared Crescentchest, a few pairs of Coal-crested Finches, and a peaceful yet beautiful Caatinga Puffbird. With the sun warming up and bird activity winding down, we decided to continue our birdwatching in another location, heading towards a lush, humid forest.

In the humid forest, the temperature was much more pleasant, providing a comfortable environment for birdwatching. We began spotting various species, such as the Sooty-fronted Spinetail, some Rufous-tailed Jacamars, which posed nicely for close-up photographs, and the first Forest Elaenias singing in the forest canopy. Amidst the avian delights, we also enjoyed the sight of some butterflies, including the distinctive "88" butterfly with its unique pattern on the ventral side of its wings. Lucky ones among us even caught a glimpse of an Azara's Agouti crossing the road. As the morning drew to a close, we returned to the town, where we purchased some supplies and had a satisfying lunch before heading back to our lodge for a well- deserved rest.

In the afternoon, we decided to stay around our hotel's vicinity, and there we had the pleasure of seeing species like the Blue-Headed Parrot, an elegant Bicolored Hawk perched on a tree in the garden, as well as White-tipped Doves, Saffron-billed Sparrows, and Cobalt-rumped Parrotlets, among others.

As the evening approached, we chose to witness the sunset from a tall observation tower. From this vantage point, we observed several bird species flying overhead, but the one that truly captivated us was the Scaled Pigeon, which revealed the striking colours of its neck and intricate patterns up close.

The setting sun cast its warm glow on the red sandstone cliffs of Chapada dos Guimarães National Park, capturing our attention. While descending towards our hotel, we were serenaded by the calls of a Tropical Screech Owl, as our guide had informed us that these owls reside in the hotel's vicinity. It was a peaceful evening, and we had a considerable number of bird species to add to our checklist.

Day 3

This morning found us once again on a road cutting through the Cerrado. Bright and early, as usual, we were ready to begin our birdwatching expedition. The first birds we spotted were the Pale-vented Pigeon and a male and female of a Brazil-endemic species, the Rufous-winged Antshrike. We continued walking through the Cerrado, which didn't seem as productive as the previous morning, but we still added some species to our list, such as Purple-throated Euphonia, Masked Gnatchatcher, and Planalto Slaty Antshrike. Some common birds from the previous day, like the numerous Plumbeous Seedeater and the photogenic Rusty-backed Antwren, made appearances as well.

To conclude our morning, we ventured back into the forest and spotted a male and female Thick-billed Euphonia, Forest Elaenia, the “White-bellied” subspecies of the Golden-crowned Warbler, a female Crested Becard, and our first sightings of the Black-fronted Nunbird. We also searched for the Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, trying our luck with playback at various points along a nearby stream, but unfortunately, it remained elusive.

To cap off the morning, we approached the observation point at the geodesic centre, where the highlight was the Crested Black Tyrant and the stunning panoramic view overlooking the vast plains where the city of Cuiabá is situated.

After returning to our hotel for lunch and a brief rest, we decided to set off for a new destination that we had not yet explored. Driving for about 45 minutes, we traversed endless fields of cotton and maize, until we reached an increasingly pristine area with an intriguing wooded Cerrado, which piqued our interest.

Before arriving at this spot, we encountered an elegant Red-legged Seriema strolling along the dirt road, seemingly unbothered by our presence as we snapped photos from our vehicle. We also caught sight of some Greater Rheas in the distant horizon. As we continued driving, we realized that a magnificent male of considerable size was near to the road, providing us with great photo opportunities.

Once in the Cerrado, as the evening descended, we spotted several species, but the one that truly caught our attention was a Laughing Falcon perched alone atop a tree. However, our main target was still to be seen, and as the sun set, our patience paid off. We were delighted to observe several Yellow-faced Parrots and between six to ten Least Nighthawks flying around us, putting on a delightful show for our eyes.

As the joyful evening drew to a close, we returned to our hotel to rest, satisfied with the day's birdwatching adventure.

Day 4

Our morning begins, but this time not quite as early, as we won't be heading to the Cerrado, and instead, we'll stay in the vicinity of the lodge, which always offers excellent birdwatching opportunities. We started the day by listening to the distant calls and drumming of a woodpecker, more precisely the Lineated Woodpecker. After a few seconds of searching, we spotted a male on one of the largest trees near the lodge, marking his territory with the thunderous drumming that characterizes these large-sized woodpeckers. What an incredible start to the morning!

Next, we took a walk along one of the paths that leaded us into the nearby forests and were fortunate to see a variety of species, including Guira Tanager, Swallow- winged Puffbird with its peculiar flight, and a male Amethyst Woodstart, among others. As we headed back, a pair of White-wedged Piculets bid us farewell before our breakfast. Our stomachs called for coffee and food, and the aroma of freshly baked bread welcomed us back at our hotel. Later, we settled our bills and sad “adeus” to our lodge, but we aren't leaving Chapada dos Guimarães just yet, as we still had a visit to the waterfall known as the Bride's Veil.

We entered the national park and, on our way, down, we observed, among other things, three species of hummingbirds: the White-vented Violetear, the Swallow- tailed Hummingbird, and the Violet-capped Woodnymph! However, before reaching the Bride's Veil, perhaps the most interesting species we spotted was the Blue Finch, perched on a tree for quite some time, allowing us to take numerous photos.

Continuing our walk, we finally arrived at a canyon of red sandstones, where the Bride's Veil cascaded in all its splendour. As we delighted in the landscape and some vultures took advantage of the thermals to soar over the canyon, we spotted a pair of Red and Green Macaws flying in the enormous hole left by the old watercourse that cut through it. The sun illuminated their magnificent plumage, making the wonderful colours explode. After observing some Black Vultures nearby, some of the macaws flew closer and perched just a few meters away from us, providing us with a unique spectacle. What a way to conclude our morning!

Now, it was time to embark on a new journey. We left behind to Chapada dos Guimarães and set forth on our path towards the largest wetland on this planet: the Pantanal!

Our afternoon began in the Pantanal. We entered through the mythical Transpantaneira route, which was constructed in the 1970s by the Brazilian military government at that time. Despite a cold front invading the area that day, many birds were still visible. The diversity and abundance of species and individuals along the Transpantaneira were truly astonishing.

Our first stop allowed us to observe our first herons, including Cocoi and Striated Herons, several Egrets such as the Great and Snowy Egrets, as well as the fearless Savanna Hawks and the first kingfishers of the trip. Continuing along the Transpantaneira, we reached its gate, where we took a group photo and got a close- up view of the first Green Ibis, Amazon, and Ringed Kingfishers, as well as the enormous and awe-inspiring Jabiru, strolling by the ponds that framed the landscape. However, in the distance, we heard the calls of a group of birds we were familiar with - yes, they were the loud calls of macaws! And so, we spotted two individuals of Hyacinth Macaws flying over the vast fields and eventually perching on a tree near our vehicle. These Macaws were huge and incredibly beautiful! We thoroughly enjoyed this encounter and opportunity.

At our third stop, the number of species and individuals increased significantly. We could see Snail Kites feasting on crabs, Large-billed Terns fishing, hundreds and hundreds of Yacare Caimans, Yellow-chinned Spinetails, and Limpkins with their chicks, to mention but a few of the species we could enjoy. We were truly amazed by the abundance of individuals and diversity in this place.

As night fell, we arrived at our hotel and engaged in some spotlighting in search of mammals. We managed to spot some Crab-eating Foxes. It was the perfect end to a spectacular day in the Pantanal.

Day 5

Our first morning in the Pantanal. Undoubtedly, it's a bit chilly for this time of year, but there's nothing we can do about it, so let's enjoy it! We started by walking around our lodge and were fortunate to come across some nice species. A Red-billed Scythebill sang among the palm trees, and the resounding calls of a pair of Thrush- like Wrens filled the air once again. We spotted our first Turquoise-fronted Amazons perched nearby and took a moment to observe the Picazuro Pigeons and several other birds that frequent the gardens of our accommodation. Before breakfast, we had another activity planned – visiting a feeding station where Crested Oropendolas, numerous Shiny Cowbirds, Grayish Baywings, and Yellow-billed Cardinals gather. Blue-gray Saltators, the famous Toco Toucan, Giant Cowbirds, and Scaled Doves also joinrd in, along with some mischievous Azara’s Capuchin monkeys trying to steal the bird feeder. Just as we were about to leave the feeding station, we spot a group of South American Coatis, curious but careless, giving us a great opportunity for photographs.

Afterward, we enjoyed a delicious coffee and got ready for a walk. During this walk, which took us through open areas and dense forests, we were fortunate to hear the distant calls and track down a group of Black-tailed Marmosets, allowing us to observe them closely. It was interesting to see how the Black-fronted Nunbirds associated with the marmoset troop, followed these playful monkeys to feed on the insects stirred up by their lively movements through the forest.   While all this happened,  we also got to observe a Pale-crested Woodpecker. We continued walking until we reached a waterhole where a Sunbittern was often found, but unfortunately, we didn't have any luck this time. Nevertheless, we still saw Lesser Kiskadee, Chestnut-vented Conebill, Short-crested Flycatcher, and some other birds. A few minutes later, we reached the spot where there was a chance to find the main objective of this walk: the Great Potoo. Luckily, we spotted a pair of them hiding skilfully among the dry branches, demonstrating the intelligence and cunning nature displays when it comes to camouflage.

On our way back, we continued observing different bird species, but undoubtedly, the most remarkable one was a male Crimson-crested Woodpecker, which gave us an excellent, clear view. The end of the morning was spent at one of the nearby ponds along the entrance route to our lodge, allowing us to marvel once again at the aquatic birds of the Pantanal.

 In the afternoon, after a tranquil siesta, we decided to hop into our vehicle and venture along the entrance road from the Transpantaneira to our lodge, which spanned about 7 km and offered excellent opportunities for wildlife sightings. We covered some distance and then chose to disembark and take a stroll, where our eyes were immediately drawn to a majestic Great Horned Owl with two fledglings proudly displaying their magnificence and the power of their talons in broad daylight. We also caught sight of a pair of Rufous Cacholotes diligently building a nest.

A little further ahead, we encountered the first Long-tailed Ground Doves, one of the characteristic birds of this slightly drier and more arid part of the Pantanal. Our quest for wildlife continued, and to our surprise, we stumbled upon a Red-footed Tortoise by the roadside. This large land tortoise boasted a formidable shell, although it is said that a jaguar could crack it open with the sheer force of its jaws. As the sun began to set, we entered a more wooded area, where we were treated to various  avian  wonders.

Without a doubt, the highlight was our initial encounter with flybys of the Orange-winged Amazon parrots, as well as the distinct calls and melodies of the Great Rufous Woodcreeper that responded well to our playback. Moreover, we witnessed a group of seven Chestnut- eared Aracaris, hopping and flitting about in an aged and

greyed  tree.  On our way back, we engaged in a bit of "spotlighting" and once again observed the elusive Crab-eating Fox, adding the Brazilian Rabbit and Red-brocket Deer to our mammalian checklist.

Day 6

Another morning in the legendary Pantanal, this time a bit more pleasant as the temperature was higher, bidding farewell to the cold front that had been hounding us in the previous days. Prior to breakfast, we set out on a path leading to a marsh, walking along a boardwalk that crossed it. Among the many things we discovered were Unicolored Blackbirds, and as we followed a “highway” where dozens of White-tipped Doves frequently flew, we were graced with the resplendent red of the Scarlet-headed Blackbird. From the boardwalk, we observed a multitude of birds taking flight, surely beginning their daily activities. Among them, there were plenty of egrets and flocks of the numerous Black-bellied Whistling Ducks.

Before heading back, we decided to cross the boardwalk and approach the edge of a forest where we spotted some small birds flitting among the dense branches of this habitat. Rusty-fronted Tody-flycatcher, Pearly-vented Tody-tyrant, and a male Mato Grosso Antbird were among the species we were able to observe.

After breakfast, we decided to return to the road that connects our lodge with the Transpantaneira, as we had an outstanding mission—to search for one of the most beautiful birds of the Pantanal: the Sunbittern. And indeed, our efforts paid off. Beneath a Fig tree with two small water puddles, we had the pleasure of observing a pair of these exquisite and delicate birds. We were even lucky enough to witness them take flight, admiring the distinctive and colourful patterns on their wings, resembling a sunset.

We returned a little earlier than usual to our place of residence, as we needed to prepare everything to depart for a new lodge shortly after finishing our lunch. And so, we did just that, finally arriving at kilometre 42 of the Transpantaneira.

Our new lodge welcomed us with some species we still needed to see, including a Campo Flicker nesting in an old termite mound, several Blue-crowned Parakeets, and our first encounter with the lively Nanday Parakeets. Upon arriving at our lodge, we settled in and took a few minutes to relax in our comfortable rooms. As the evening approached, we ventured out once again in our vehicle, ready for new adventures.

During our evening excursion, we were delighted to spot both species of Piping Guans—the White-throated and the Red-throated. We also came across the stunning and eye-catching Scarlet Flycatcher, along with some tanagers like the Sayaca and the Silver-beaked. Of course, a highlight of the evening was witnessing one of Brazil's endemic curassows, the Chestnut-bellied Guan.

On our way back, we decided to give spotlighting another shot, although it didn't yield much success. Nevertheless, we paused for a few minutes to investigate the shining eyes perched atop a tree. After an intensive search, we finally identified a pair of South American Coatis, taking advantage of the dense cover of the tree to hide and spend the night. Nature is wise, and so, emulating its wisdom, we returned to our lodge, had a hearty dinner, and rested, eager to embrace the next day with renewed energy!

Day 7

We gathered early at the pier, ready for a two-hour boat ride on the Claro River. Drifting downstream, we sought different bird species and captured photos of the ones we had previously encountered. The river's cool breeze and the morning's tranquillity set the perfect stage. Our camera lens framed and immortalized various subjects, including the three species of kingfishers: Amazon, Ringed, and Green. Both male and female Anhingas and Neotropical Cormorants gracefully flew, dived, and skidded across the water, using the river as their runway for take-off, evading our boat.

At one point, we faintly heard the call of a Collared Forest Falcon from the depths of the forest. We decided to try some playback from the boat, hoping to coax the elusive falcon closer for a distant glimpse. After a while, we abandoned our efforts and continued with our boat ride. Then, out of nowhere, a stunning light-phase Collared Forest Falcon crossed the river from the left, gliding right before our eyes before perching briefly on a low branch. While the moment was fleeting, some of us managed to capture its beauty in photographs. It swiftly disappeared into the lush greenery, leaving us in awe of the secretive bird we were privileged to witness.

As we continued our journey along the river, we spotted a wake of water on the clear surface, and there it was—a Sungrebe. However, it vanished into the dense vegetation before we could get a closer look. Later, we had the pleasure of observing a pair of Black-capped Donacobius defending their territory, wagging their tails and calling in an enchanting dance.

Back at the hotel after a well-deserved coffee break, we decided to explore a nearby forest. There, we encountered different bird species, notably a pair of Rusty-backed Spinetails, the small yet intriguing Stripe-necked Tody Tyrant, which required some effort for everyone to catch a glimpse, the diminutive Plain Inezia, and finally, a clear view of the Fuscous Flycatcher amidst the calls of Helmeted Manakins.

In the afternoon, another walk afforded us the opportunity to add yet another parrot to our list—the Scaly-headed Parrot—and also spot the Rufous Casiornis, a tyrant that defies its name, along with several other bird species. As the sun began its descent, we returned to the riverbank, enjoying the sunset with cold beers, savouring the beauty of another day in the Pantanal. However, the pesky mosquitoes hastened our retreat to our quarters for a refreshing bath, followed by a delicious dinner, as we prepared to say goodbye to this day finally.

Day 8

Another morning awaited us on the Claro River, offering a fresh chance to spot some elusive species we hadn't encountered yet. We embarked on our river journey once again, this time with two boats, as we had encountered a water hyacinth blockage the previous day. With the lighter load and less resistance of two boats, navigating through the blockage became much easier, allowing us to access areas with greater potential for sightings.After a few minutes of smooth sailing, we arrived at certain spot and began our observations. The first species to grace us with its presence was the Green and Rufous Kingfisher. At first, it appeared in the shadows amidst some obstructing branches, but we soon had a second opportunity, affording us a clearer view. Later, a dainty male Band-tailed Antwren darted by, coming within just a few feet of our boat, granting us fantastic photographic opportunities. The morning by the river flew by, offering us numerous opportunities to capture these moments and many more through our cameras. As we made our way back, we had the pleasure of witnessing a spectacle at the hotel's feeders. Nanday Parakeets, colourful Purplish Jays, vibrant Saffron Finches, and a trio of Red-crested Cardinals were all feasting on the seeds, creating a lively scene for us to cherish

 Mid-morning, we said goodbye to our hotel and continued southward on the Transpantaneira, making a stop at kilometre 60 for a delightful lunch. After enjoying the scrumptious meal and taking a brief rest, we resumed our journey, witnessing the landscape gradually transform. Our subsequent stops granted us the chance to see a male Barred Antshrike, our first close encounter with the Black-bellied Whistling Duck (they usually flew high above!), as well as the Common Tody Flycatcher and a Creamy-bellied Thrush, which briefly graced us with its presence. We were also treated to the sight of the magnificent Chotoy Spinetail, perched on a bush, perfectly illuminated for photography.

As we ventured further along the Transpantaneira, the surroundings became increasingly verdant, with water's influence becoming more apparent as we delved into the heart of the Pantanal. In the final hours of the day, a majestic male Marsh Deer emerged from the vegetation, displaying its impressive antlers as it grazed. We thought our day had come to and end, but there was more in store for us. Various birds gathered near our lodge, seeking shelter for the night, including Buff-necked and Plumbeous Ibis, some tanagers, and parakeets. However, the true star of the day's grand finale was undoubtedly the Hyacinth Macaw. Over ten individuals graced us with their presence, soaring gracefully from branch to branch in the fading light of the day.

With nightfall approaching, the Nacunda Nighthawks elegantly glided  above  a  small  lagoon within our lodge's grounds, heralding the arrival of the night. There was nothing more to ask for—our day had reached its fulfilling end.

Day 9

The morning held many surprises for us once again, this time on the Cuiaba River, where we embarked on a new adventure after an early breakfast. At the dock, our boat and its skilled pilot awaited, ready to take us on another journey. The night before, we had a meeting explaining the operations, and we understood the significance of these days – the chance to encounter a Jaguar in these lands was something we would surely never forget.

As the sun rose on the horizon, we set out on the river, braving the chill of the morning. After a few minutes of anticipation, we received a call on the radio - the first  jaguar  had  been spotted! Full of excitement, we sped towards the location. There she was, a female Jaguar gracefully walking along the riverbank, with two small cubs following close behind, no more than 4 to 5 months old. Our eyes were filled with awe as she appeared and disappeared amidst the vegetation, etching each moment into our memories. Along the way, other birds such     as Pied Plovers, Yellow-billed Terns, and Black Skimmers accompanied our jaguar sightings, leaving us utterly enchanted.

After a well-deserved siesta to recover our energies, we set out again in the afternoon, eager for new jaguar encounters. Shortly after navigating the river, we came across a group of people attempting to locate a female jaguar that had taken refuge in the thickets. To our delight, we were the first to spot her, not alone, but accompanied by her two one-year-old cubs, attempting to cross the river. The female led the way, with the cubs following closely behind. However, one of the cubs changed its mind and decided not to cross, heading back to the shore. The second cub, realizing its sibling's decision, also turned back, and the mother, upon realizing that both cubs had returned, decided to follow suit. The three individuals vanished into the vegetation.

Throughout the rest of the day, we continued to spot jaguars, but one particular massive male caughtourattention.He wasrestinganddozingpeacefullyin thesun. Although the viewwasn'textremelyclear,we could stillgrasp thesheersize ofthis majestic creature, noticeably largerthan the females,evident in his neck, head,and even the breadth of his tail. We were left in awe of his magnificence

On our way back to the lodge, we passed by a cave inhabited by Giant Otters, and we witnessed a male marking his territory by urinating on the ground and spreading it with his paws. We decided to return to the lodge a bit earlier to capture photos of the Hyacinth Macaws in their full splendour during the golden light of the setting sun. It was a spectacular day, with a golden finale.

We encountered eight different jaguars on our first day of river exploration – an achievement worth celebrating in this breathtaking Pantanal.

Day 10

The following morning brought us another unexpected encounter on the Rio Cuiaba as we set out for another day of navigation. This time, we decided to focus more on the possibility of seeing the Giant Otters. We took a detour down the Rio Piquiri, navigating for about 20 minutes until we finally came across a family of Giant Otters swimming against the current, feeding in their typical confident and skillful manner. With each dive, every member of the family surfaced with a fish in their paws, and just a few meters away from us, they indulged in a feast. The sound of fish bones being crushed, a distinct and unmistakable "crunch crunch," instantly captured our attention. It was an auditory experience like no other, drawing us into the moment with its unique and fascinating quality. Each crisp snap resonated with a blend of curiosity and wonder, as if unveiling a hidden aspect of nature's grand tapestry.

Then some of the Giant Otters decided to turn around an cross the river, they called out to each other from afar with those nasal, loud and distinctive sounds, and their communication both amused and astounded us. It was a surreal experience, witnessing the simplicity and complexity of nature unfolding before us, offering glimpses into the intricate world of the creatures that inhabit it.

After returning to the lodge, we enjoyed a delicious lunch and took some time to rest. Then, in the afternoon, we were back on the river for another adventure.

Our last afternoon on the river, and we decided to explore some areas we hadn't been to before. We sought out smaller streams that would allow us to get closer to the wildlife. We navigated the river patiently, and just before reaching one of these streams, we encountered some Giant Otters swimming. We spent some moments observing them before continuing on our way. Once we arrived at one of the smaller streams, in the first bend, we

Our last boat ride at the Rio Cuiabá © Lucas Marti – Trogon Tours

spotted around 7 or 8 Sac-winged

Bats resting on the bark of a tree, perfectly mimicking their surroundings.

As we returned to the main course of the river and ventured down another stream, we noticed that the sun was descending, changing the light and the aroma in the air. Along the way, we enjoyed sightings of kingfishers, Black-collared Hawks, Wattled Jacanas, and many other species as they engaged in their final activities of the day. We relished the moment, taking photographs and soaking in the beauty of the surroundings before starting our journey back.

Before reaching our starting point, we stopped at the confluence of a small stream and the Cuiabá River. There, we anchored our boat and began to drift with the current as the sun set. We celebrated our last evening on the river with drinks and some food. Band-tailed Nighthawks announced the approaching night, soaring above the river and feasting on the thousands of insects that emerged as the light faded and the temperature began to drop.

Upon returning to our lodge, perhaps unintentionally, we started bidding farewell to this incredible experience that had left an indelible mark on our minds and hearts.

 Day 11

Glorious days on the river; however, it's not over yet, and there are still some things to see and experience. This morning, we took the opportunity to walk through the gardens of our lodge, observing some of the lovely birds that reside here, such as the Pantanal Snipe and the Yellowish Pipit, among others, fluttering amidst the vegetation near the lagoon at the back of our hotel. As we strolled along a wooden boardwalk, we caught sight of the Giant Water Lilies, with their enormous flotation structures measuring almost a meter and a half in diameter. Some Wattled Jacanas perched gracefully on them while feeding on the insects that abound there.

As we were walking, we heard the distinctive and subtle call of a Gray-breasted Crake, but it didn't respond to our calls, so we continued our walk, reaffirming our knowledge of the various species we've encountered. Eventually, we reached the main building, where we enjoyed a hearty breakfast, packed our bags, and set off on our journey, this time heading north. After driving for a while, we made another stop in a forest that promised some new bird sightings to add to our long list. Among the fascinating species we encountered were the Cream-colored Woodpecker, Hooded Tanager, Fawn breasted Wren, Ashy-headed Greenlets, and several others.

After a few hours of driving, we reached our lodge at kilometre 60 on the Transpantaneira. We unloaded our bags, had lunch, and took a short break. In the afternoon, we embarked on a boat ride, testing our photography skills with the various birds that fished in the river – Black-collared Hawks, kingfishers, and Cocoi Herons. Despite the high-water levels, the beauty of the river was still magnificent. Later, as the darkness enveloped the forest, we ventured into a specially prepared area to patiently wait for a rare sighting. Our efforts were rewarded as a stunning Ocelot appeared, a small, spotted, elegant, and powerful creature, hunting around the trees, seemingly unaware of our presence, yet we knew it noticed us all along. Just minutes before, we were fortunate enough to spot a Common Potoo perched on a dry branch, singing briefly before taking flight. The night descended, and the forest came alive with new sounds, new voices, and calls.

Back at our lodge, while dining, some of us discussed the highlights of the trip, expressing gratitude, and raising a toast to the unforgettable moments.

Day 12

On the day of departure, we woke up early with the intention of going for a walk before breakfast, but the mist played a trick on us. However, it gave us the opportunity to catch sight of some birds at the feeders around our accommodation and to contemplate a new and different landscape from what we had known so far. After breakfast, we prepared to head back to the city of Cuiabá. We drove for a few hours, but before leaving, we decided to make a stop at one of the water ponds where we had been on our first day in the Pantanal. The diversity there was overwhelming, and this last experience left us with a vivid mental picture of it. Numerous bird species interacted in this wetland, and among them we counted around 28 Jabirus feeding, preening, and resting alongside the road. We even spotted a species we hadn't seen until then, the White-faced Whistling Duck.

We got back into our vehicle, knowing that this adventure was coming to an end. Arriving at Cuiabá airport with our hearts full of experiences and our eyes delighted from these 12 days of travel, we bid farewell to our local guide, our driver, and our tour leader. We shared warm hugs and goodbyes, knowing that we would carry with us a plethora of things that cannot be fully described in this report simply because words are not enough to convey the beauty of what we have experienced.

Wildlife List - Chapada dos Guimarães and Northern Pantanal –

2023

Notes:

Total species detected: 266 Endemics: 3

( E ): country endemic H: heard only

BIRDS

Greater Rhea Rhea americana

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui

Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus H

Small-billed Tinamou Crypturellus parvirostris H

Tataupa Tinamou Crypturellus tataupa

Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens H Chaco Chachalaca Ortalis canicollis

Chestnut-bellied Guan Penelope ochrogaster ( E )

White-throated Piping Guan Pipile grayi

Red-throated Piping Guan Pipile cujubi

Bare-faced Curassow Crax fasciolata

Southern Screamer Chauna torquata

White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata

Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis

Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus

Nacunda Nighthawk Chordeiles nacunda

Least Nighthawk Chordeiles pusillus

Band-tailed Nighthawk Nyctiprogne leucopyga

Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis

Band-winged Nightjar Systellura longirostris

Scissor-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis torquata

Great Dusky Swift Cypseloides senex

Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macroura

White-vented Violetear Colibri serrirostris

Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon lucidus

Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata

Glittering-throated Emerald Chionomesa fimbriata

Blue-tufted Starthroat Heliomaster furcifer

Amethyst Woodstar Calliphlox amethystina

Guira Cuckoo Guira guira

Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani

Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia H

Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana

Rock Dove Columba livia

Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa

Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro

Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis

Scaled Dove Columbina squammata

Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti

Picui Ground Dove Columbina picui

Blue Ground Dove Claravis pretiosa H

Long-tailed Ground Dove Uropelia campestris

White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi

Sungrebe Heliornis fulica

Gray-breasted Crake Laterallus exilis

Gray-cowled Wood Rail Aramides cajaneus

Limpkin Aramus guarauna

White-backed Stilt Himantopus melanurus

Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis

Pied Plover Hoploxypterus cayanus

Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana

Pantanal Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae

Black Skimmer Rynchops niger

Yellow-billed Tern Sternula superciliaris

Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex

Sunbittern Eurypyga helias

Wood Stork Mycteria americana

Jabiru Jabiru mycteria

Neotropic Cormorant Nannopterum brasilianum

Anhinga Anhinga anhinga

Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens

Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus

Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis

Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus

Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja

Rufescent Tiger Heron Tigrisoma lineatum

Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

Striated Heron Butorides striata Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi

Great Egret Ardea alba

Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus

Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix

Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea

Snowy Egret Egretta thula

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura

Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus

Western OspreyPandionhaliaetus

Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens

Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis

Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga

Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris

Tropical Screech Owl Megascops choliba H

Great Horned Owl Bubo virginianus

Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum

Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia

Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui

American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea

Green-and-rufous Kingfisher Chloroceryle inda

Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana

Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona

Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata

Amazonian Motmot Momotus momota

Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda

White-eared Puffbird Nystalus chacuru

Caatinga Puffbird Nystalus maculatus

Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons

Swallow-winged Puffbird Chelidoptera tenebrosa

Lettered Aracari Pteroglossus inscriptus

Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis

Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus

Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco

White-wedged Piculet Picumnus albosquamatus

White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus

Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus

Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus

Golden-green Woodpecker Piculus chrysochloros H

Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros

Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris

Pale-crested Woodpecker Celeus lugubris

Cream-colored Woodpecker Celeus flavus

Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus

Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos

Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata

Crested Caracara Caracara plancus

Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima

Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans

Collared Forest Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus

Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus

Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri

Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani

Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus

Yellow-faced Parrot Alipiopsitta xanthops

Turquoise-fronted Amazon Amazona aestiva

Orange-winged Amazon Amazona amazonica

Cobalt-rumped Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius

Hyacinth Macaw Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus

Peach-fronted Parakeet Eupsittula aurea

Nanday Parakeet Aratinga nenday

Yellow-collared Macaw Primolius auricollis

Blue-winged Macaw Primolius maracana

Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloropterus

Red-shouldered Macaw Diopsittaca nobilis

Blue-crowned Parakeet Thectocercus acuticaudatus

White-eyed Parakeet Psittacara leucophtalmus

Great Rufous Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes major

Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus

Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus

Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris

Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris

Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus

Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus

Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber

Rusty-backed Spinetail Cranioleuca vulpina

Grey-crested Cacholote Pseudoseisura unirufa

Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomeus

Chotoy Spinetail Schoeniophylax phryganophilus

White-lored Spinetail Synallaxis albilora

Cinereous-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis hypospodia H

Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens

Sooty-fronted Spinetail Synallaxis frontalis

Rusty-backed Antwren Formicivora rufa

Large-billed Antwren Herpsilochmus longirostris

Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis

Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus

Planalto Slaty Antshrike Thamnophilus pelzelni ( E )

Rufous-winged Antshrike Thamnophilus torquatus

Great Antshrike Taraba major

Mato Grosso Antbird Cercomacra melanaria

Band-tailed Antbird Hypocnemoides maculicauda

Collared Crescentchest Melanopareia torquata

Forest Elaenia Myiopagis gaimardii

Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster

Plain-crested Elaenia Elaenia cristata

Lesser Elaenia Elaenia chiriquensis

Southern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum

Chapada Flycatcher Guyramemua affine

Plain Inezia Inezia inornata

Stripe-necked Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus striaticollis

Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer

Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus latirostris

Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum

Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea

Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemotriccus fuscatus

Scarlet Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus

Crested Black Tyrant Knipolegus lophotes

White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velatus

Black-backed Water Tyrant Fluvicola albiventer

White-headed Marsh Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala

Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosa

Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis

Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus

Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor

Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua

Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus

Sibilant Sirystes Sirystes sibilator

Rufous Casiornis Casiornis rufus

Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox

Helmeted Manakin Antilophia galeata

Band-tailed Manakin Pipra fasciicauda

Fiery-capped Manakin Machaeropterus pyrocephalus H

Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata

Crested Becard Pachyramphus validus

Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis

Ashy-headed Greenlet Hylophilus pectoralis

Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas Curl-crested Jay Cyanocorax cristatellus Sand Martin Riparia riparia

White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer

Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea

Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis

Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapilla

Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus

Moustached Wren Pheugopedius genibarbis H

Fawn-breasted Wren Cantorchilus guarayanus

Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus

Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris

Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas

Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens H

Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica

Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris

Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis

Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis

Pectoral Sparrow Arremon taciturnus

Saffron-billed Sparrow Arremon flavirostris

Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus

Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius

Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela

Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus

Variable Oriole Icterus pyrroptherus

Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus

Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis

Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus

Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi

Grayish Baywing Agelaioides badius

Unicolored Blackbird Agelasticus cyanopus

Southern Yellowthroat Geothlypis velata

Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus

Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata

Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata

Cinnamon Tanager Schistochlamys ruficapillus ( E )

Black-faced Tanager Schistochlamys melanopis

Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata

White-rumped Tanager Cypsnagra hirundinacea

White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca

Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum Shrike-like Tanager Neothraupis fasciata Burnished-buff Tanager Stilpnia cayana Swallow Tanager Tersina viridis

Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana

Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira

Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum

Coal-crested Finch Charitospiza eucosma

Red Pileated Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus

Blue Finch Porphyrospiza caerulescens

Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola

Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus

Blue-gray Saltator Saltator coerulescens

Black-throated Saltator Saltatricula atricollis

Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina

Plumbeous Seedeater Sporophila plumbea

Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris

Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens

Bananaquit Coereba flaveola

MAMMALS

Black-tailed Marmoset Mico melanurus

Azara's Capuchin Sapajus cay

Black-and-Gold Howler Monkey Alouatta caraya

Crab-eating Fox Cerdocyon thous South American Coati Nasua nasua Giant Otter Pteronura brasiliensis Ocelot Leopardus pardalis

Jaguar Panthera onca

Red Brocket Mazama americana Gray Borcket Mazama gouazoubira Marsh Deer Blastocerus dichotomus Capybara Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris

Brazilian RabbitSylvilagusbrasiliensis

Lesser Bulldog Bat Noctilio albiventris

Sac-winged Bat Saccopteryx sp.

REPTILES

Yacare Caiman Caiman yacare Common Green Iguana Iguana iguana Neotropical Ameiva Ameiva ameiva

Paraguay Caiman Lizard Dracaena paraguayensis

Golden Tegu Tupinambis teguixin Amazon Lava Lizard Tropidurus torquatus Yellow Anaconda Eunectes notaeus

Red-footed Tortoise Chelonoidis carbonarius